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Hollow Right, North Shore ~ Tuesday, October 2nd 2012

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The name of the surf spot has been changed to protect the innocent. Yesterday (Tuesday) I had my car all packed up and was headed to up the Pali and over to town to surf/shoot the south shore. Got a call from a friend who was half way to the Country. I didn't want to hear how epic it was later, so I called and audible and rerouted. Came up around the Eastside and turning the last corner before the North Shore stretch...

I saw plenty of whitewater and energy in the ocean. Grabbed my board and hustled out to get what I could before the sun popped up. The waves were firing. 3 to 4 feet with some draining double ups if you picked the right one. Conditions were glassy to light offshores. Got a couple of tubers and then went in to grab the camera. Took pictures between 8am and 10am.

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